Showing posts with label Home Inspection. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Home Inspection. Show all posts

Sunday, January 19, 2014

What is AFCI (Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter)


What it is

AFCI (ARC Fault Circuit Interrupter) are the special circuit breakers inside the main Electrical panel which detects arching at the outlets in addition to performing as regular circuit breakers which offer protection against overload and short circuiting. They are very sophisticated devises which can detect special waveforms which are generated during arching at the outlet. AFCI can distinguish between the arching caused by regular operation i.e pulling out a cord and the one caused by an arc fault.

When the arc fault is detected the breakers opens the internal circuits within and thus stops the flow of current. Licensed Electrical contractor must be contacted to determine the cause of tripping before resetting it again.

What it an Arc Fault

We know that AFCI detects arc fault. But what exactly is an Arc Fault? To understand that first we need to know what is an arc? Arc is a luminous discharge of current that is formed when strong current jumps a gap (air) in a circuit or between two electrodes. The arc when generated produces heat and light which can burn the combustible material it comes in contact with. In houses arc fault is caused when loose or corroded connections make intermittent contact and causes arc. Arching should not be confused with short circuiting which is caused when a hot wire comes in contact with neutral or ground wire. If you ever heard buzzing or hissing sound at the outlets that is caused by arching.

Which circuits are protected with AFCI

After 2002 all 15 amp and 20 amp outlets in the bedrooms needs to be protected by AFCI breakers. In future more areas will be required to be protected. Every year many houses get burnt by fires caused by arc faults in the houses causing great deal of loss of life and property.
 

Sunday, January 12, 2014

Types of Wood Flooring


There are basically 3 types of wooden flooring used in the houses.

1. Hardwood Flooring

The hardwood as the name suggest are the planks cut from actual timber to specified dimension. They are either packed unfinished to be finished  / stained at the site or factory finished. They come in variety of finishes and styles. Depending upon the requirement they can be flat sawn, quarter sawn or rift sawn to produce particular finish. Wooden flooring planks are usually 3/4"  thick and are nailed to the subfloor during installation. They have thicker wear surface and can be sanded multiple times. The hardwood floors are difficult to install where concrete is used as a subfloor for example basements and apartments.

2. Engineered wood Flooring

The engineered wood composed of top layer of wood veneer called lamella over core which can be of plywood, finger core construction or fibreboard. Engineered wood flooring is most popular wood flooring in the world. Only in North America Hardwood flooring is used more. However, it is increasing in popularity. Each layer of Engineered wood is run 90° to increase the stability and strength. This increased stability enables it to be used anywhere on any subfloor including concrete. Furthermore, it is less prone to expansion, curling and coupling than that of hard wood flooring. It is often confused with laminate and vinyl floors . Laminate uses an image of wood on its surface and vinyl flooring is plastic formed to look like a wood. Engineered wood can be from 3ply to 7ply, durability and cost increases with increasing number of plies.

The advantages of Engineered wood flooring over Hardwood flooring.

1. Can be installed on any subfloor including concrete.

2. It is not limited in plank size.

3. Is less prone to gapping, curling and cupping.

4. Unlike solid wood flooring it can be used where radiant floor heating is installed.

5. With Engineered wood mostly factory finished. The finish is more durable and drying time of the finish is saved.

6. Less labour intensive to install thus cost and time of installation is less.

3. Laminate Flooring

Perhaps the cheapest and least durable of all the three types of flooring mentioned here. Laminate flooring is basically not a wood flooring. It is a multi-layer synthetic flooring product fused together with a lamination process. Lamination flooring simulates wood or stone with photographic applique layer under clear protective layer. The inner core is composed of melamine resin and fibre board materials.

Laminate flooring has grown in popularity as it is very easy to install and is relatively inexpensive. It can be used in apartments with concrete as a subfloor with tongue and groove assembly.
 


Monday, January 6, 2014

What causes concrete to crack


What is concrete?

Concrete is a mixture of cement, sand and aggregate mixed in certain proportions determined by the strength required. When water is added to the mixture a chemical reaction occurs by which concrete becomes solid. Water cement ratio (amount of water per bags of cement) is very important. If more water is added concrete losses its compressive strength. However, add to little and the concrete is not workable. Additional compounds usually known as admixtures are also added to concrete mixture to improve the workability of the concrete.  Concrete is strong in compression but weaker in tension. Therefore, to improve its tensile strength steel reinforcement is added.

What causes cracks?

Cracks in concrete are inevitable. Although good workmanship and quality control can avoid disasters. However, they cannot prevent cracks from developing over period of time. Cracks in the concrete are a result of many different reasons. Few of them can be!

1. SHRINKAGE CRACKS

Concrete in its plastic state contains water, when water evaporates during curing of concrete, it shrinks and stresses develop. To release these stresses cracks develop in concrete. These cracks can develop anywhere on concrete which can be unsightly. Therefore, a good practise is to construct control joints (not expansion joints) at regular intervals to control where the cracks should develop so that they don't appear ugly.

2. EXPANSION CRACKS

Concrete like any other material expands and contracts as per variations in temperature. When concrete expands and pushes against the adjoining material, stresses develop resulting in development of cracks. Expansion joints are required at regular distances and various other locations to prevent these cracks.

3. CRACKS CAUSED BY HEAVING

Ground conditions also result in development of cracks in the concrete. Certain types of soils expands when wet and contracts when dry. Furthermore, frost will make the soil to expand and while thawing the soil contracts. This cycle of expansion and contraction causes concrete to crack.

4. SETTLEMENT OF GROUND

All buildings settle little bit after getting constructed. If the ground underneath was not compacted properly, differential or irregular settlement can occur resulting in development of cracks.

5. OVERLOADING

Concrete is designed to take certain amount of load. If it is loaded beyond that limit cracks might appear. Furthermore, the ground below the concrete may not be compacted properly or is wet, making it to settle under load and as a result cracking the concrete.

6. PREMATURE DRYING

If the concrete dries to quickly then the crazing cracks appear on the surface.
 

Thursday, January 2, 2014

Condensation on windows


What is it?

Condensation refers to the accumulation of moisture on the window panes. It is an indication of high levels of relative humidity inside the house. Warm air can hold much higher water vapour content than colder air. When the warm air comes in contact with the glass panes which are colder (in winters), the air temperature reduces and so does it ability to hold water vapours. When the temperature of air reaches dew point, the excess water vapours changes to liquid and drips down the windows as condensation.

How to prevent condensation?

In order to prevent condensation the relative humidity or the moisture content of the inside air has to be reduced as well as circulation of air near the windows needs to be improved.

Condensation can be prevented by:

1. Increasing the air circulation near the windows. That can be achieved by opening the louvers and curtains and also if the weather permits opening up the windows. In winters fan can be used to improve the air circulation around the window as well.

2. By using dehumidifier to reduce the humidity of the air.

3. Running kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans till fifteen to twenty minutes after taking the bath or cooking.

4. Checking the exhaust pipe for any leaks for your clothes dryer.  Clothes dryer exhaust contains high degree of moisture in it and if not properly sealed can add a great deal of moisture to the inside air.

5. Checking and changing your furnace filters regularly.

6. Caulking around the windows to prevent air leakages.

7. Cleaning vents and ducts every 1 to 2 years.

8. Repairing any cracks in foundation walls, floors.

9. Installing double glazed or insulated glass windows instead of single pane glass windows if any present in your house.


Excessive condensation can cause permanent damage to the windows and can promote mold and fungi growth in the house. Therefore, it should be controlled and mitigated for heath of your family.

Find us on google places / maps Home Inspection Mississauga, Home Inspector Mississauga, Mississauga Home Inspection

Sunday, December 29, 2013

Vermiculite Insulation


What it is

Vermiculite is a mica like mineral mined around the world and used in variety of commercial and consumer products because of its fire resistance and good insulating properties.

What it problem

Some vermiculite insulation may contain amphibole asbestos fibres. These can cause health risks if disturbed during maintenance, renovation or demolition. The vermiculite of concern is basically which is mined by the Libby mine in Montana from 1920 - 1990. It was sold as Zonolite attic insulation and possibly other brands. Vermiculite from Libby mine may contain amphibole asbestos. Vermiculite insulation from the Libby mine was not used widely after mid 1980 and were not sold in Canada after 1990. Not all vermiculite insulation produced before 1990 contains asbestos. However, if the building is old and contains vermiculite insulation than it should be tested in the lab for asbestos to be safe.

What can be Done

There is mostly no danger or health  risk if the insulation is sealed behind wallboards and floorboards, isolated in an attic, or otherwise kept from exposure to the interior environment. The overall percentage of amphibole asbestos is very less in bulk vermiculite but they can increase the material is disturbed.

If there is vermiculite insulation in your attic take following precautions!

1. Avoid disturbing Vermiculite insulation.

2. Don't allow children to play in the attic and inform anyone working in the   attic about vermiculite insulation.

3. do not use attic for storage.

4. Avoid going and moving in attic if required use walk on boards.

5. Use respirator masks only and not dust masks.

6. If you decide to remove the vermiculite insulation or remodel / renovate your house use certified and qualified contractor trained in its removal only. Never try to remove it yourself.

7. Seal all cracks and holes in the ceilings of rooms below the insulation i.e apply caulking around light fixtures and attic hatch to prevent insulation sifting through.
At RK Home Inspections we are available 7 days a week and we serve entire GTA Home Inspection Toronto, Home Inspection Mississauga, Home Inspection Brampton, Home Inspection Vaughan, Home Inspection GTA, Home Inspection Markham, Home Inspection Milton

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Sunday, August 25, 2013

Issues Affecting Older Homes for Insurance Coverage


If you are buying a house older than 30 years it’s always a good idea to speak to your insurance company before finalizing the deal. Insurance companies may ask you to upgrade one and more components of your house before providing you with the insurance coverage. You may need to budget the upgrades in the purchase offer you make for the house.

There are many items to look out for but the main areas of concern are!

1. Oil fuel Tank

Oil fuel tanks if leaking can cause Environmental Hazard which can cost enormous amount of money to clean up. The oil tanks older than 25 years have a higher potential of developing rust and thus leaking oil. Most Insurance companies require the tank to be inspected by Technical Standards and safety Authority (TSSA) inspector. Furthermore, if the oil tank is very old the insurance company may ask to get it replaced with a gas or electrical furnace before insuring your home.

2. Wood burning stoves

Wood burning (solid fuel) burning stoves can pose a very serious fire hazard and a health Hazard as they can generate carbon monoxide if not properly vented or installed. Insurance companies may ask the stove should be inspected by Wood Energy Technical Training (WETT) Technician and certified by Underwriters Laboratories of Canada (ULC), Canadian Standard Association (CSA) or Warnock Hersey before providing insurance coverage. Furthermore, the stove should be cleaned and inspected yearly by Professional sweep to check the chimney liners for development of creosote and any cracks, which can be a Fire Hazard.

3. Knob and tube wiring

Knob and tube wiring is mostly found in houses older than 50 years. its consists of parallel hot (black) and neutral (white) wires, separated by knobs (or insulators) and ceramic tubes.

Knob and tube wiring is considered a higher risk wiring than the modern wiring installation because.

a. There is no ground wire thus it’s a safety hazard. also since the receptacles are two prongs many modern equipment will not be able to connect and the prongs needs to be replaced by GFCI protected Three prong outlets, or the wiring has to be changed to modern Romex (three wire) wiring.

b. Giving their age, the wires are highly susceptible to wearing and exposure, presenting a serious safety hazard. The wires can also be covered by insulation at some locations which can result in overheating and is a Fire Hazard.

c. The accidental contact of hot and neutral wires may potentially cause a electrical fire.

The insurance company may ask to replace the Knob and Tube wiring or alternatively ask to get it inspected by licensed electrical contractor for safety before insuring your home.

4. 60-Amp Electrical Service

60-Amp service was prevalent in the homes built prior to 1950. This service may not be sufficient to run modern equipment in the house. There is a chance of overloading and overheating the panel which is a major Fire hazard. Insurance companies may require you to upgrade the service to 100-Amp which is a standard for modern homes or to install a switching devise that allows for the operation of only one major appliance at a time.

5. Galvanized Steel Plumbing

Galvanized steel pipes, commonly installed in homes prior to 1950, have an average life expectancy of 40–50 years. Over time, the galvanized steel pipes begin to rust or corrode from the inside out, resulting in reduced water pressure and restricted water flow. This presents an increased risk of leaks or ruptures occurring in the pipes and the potential for flood damage. Your insurance company may require you to replace galvanized steel piping with copper and plastic piping before providing you with insurance coverage.
 
At RK Home Inspections we are available 7 days a week and we serve entire GTA Home Inspection Toronto, Home Inspection Mississauga, Home Inspection Brampton, Home Inspection Vaughan, Home Inspection GTA, Home Inspection Markham

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          Monday, August 5, 2013

          Aluminum wiring


          Utility companies have used Aluminum in their transmission lines since early 1900. It is still the preferred transmission and distribution wiring material for distributing companies because Aluminum offers cost and weight advantages over copper.

          This blog is focussed on Aluminum wiring from Home Inspection point of view thus we will talk about its use in houses only.

          In North America Aluminum wiring was used in houses between 1960 and late 1970. The cost of copper was much higher compared to aluminum. Therefore, to save money Aluminum was used as an alternative to copper. It is estimated that there are around 450,000 houses in Canada which are wired with Aluminum wiring. Insurance companies are becoming more and more wary of the houses with aluminum wiring due to associated fire hazard and require inspection and a certificate of safety from the licensed electrician before issuing or renewing insurance policy for the houses with Aluminum wiring. As per US product safety commission Homes with aluminum wiring are 55 times more likely to have one or more connections reach Fire Hazard Condition than a home wired with copper.

          Problems with Aluminum wiring

          1. Aluminum wire in itself is not a fire hazard its only when the termination were not properly done it becomes loose, overheat which can cause arching which can start the fire.

          2. Aluminum oxidises more than copper which forms a layer of aluminum oxide on top of wire. The layer although very thin is non-conductor of electricity. The current carrying capacity of the wire is then reduced which overheats the wire.

          3. Aluminum expands and contracts more than copper so if the connections are not made properly overtime the connections become loose and arching can occur.

          4. The problem in aluminum wiring is mostly for the single strand wiring circuits used for 15amp and 20 amp branch circuits, although all the circuits need to be inspected by licensed electrician.

          5. Aluminum has a higher resistance to current flow which means to carry same amount of current aluminum wire has to be thicker than that of copper.

          6. Aluminum is more malleable thus it is more sensitive to compression. If the screw has been over-tightened on Aluminum wiring, the wire will continue to deform after tightening has stopped. This deformation creates a loose connection and reduces the current carrying capacity of the wire.

          How to locate aluminum wiring

          The best place to check whether your house has Aluminum wiring is to look for visible wiring in attic, basement and crawl space or at the service panel. The wiring should be marked with the word Aluminum, ALUM, AL, ALUM ACM, AL ACM. During home inspection the inspector will open the main distribution panel (if accessible and safe). Aluminum wires can be spotted at splices near the breakers or fuses.

          Furthermore, following symptoms that indicates aluminum wiring!

          1. Flickering lights.

          2. Static on the radio, computer or TV

          3. Circuit breakers or fuses that trip for no apparent reason.

          4. Odor similar to that of burning plastic around switches and receptacles.

          5. Discolored or warm switch plates and receptacles covers.

          6. Plugs that do not work even with the circuit energized.

          How to fix Aluminum wiring problems

          To fix aluminum wiring problems hire Licensed Electrical contractor to inspect your house and to get advise about what needs to be done to ensure the safety. Every house is different and the solution to the aluminum wiring varies. 

          Following is few fixes that a licensed electrical contractor can propose!

          1. The best and permanent solution is to replace Aluminum wiring with the copper wiring.

          2. Cut back the damaged aluminum conductors and join these to a copper tail using a connector approved for use with aluminum. Such connectors are colored brown or purple (depending on the manufacturer). The copper tail is then terminated at the terminal screws of an ordinary devise (which includes approved receptacles, etc.)

          3. Cut back damaged aluminum conductors and re-terminate a new device bearing the marking CO/ALR (copper aluminum revised).

          At RK Home Inspection we advise our clients to hire a licensed electrical contractor to inspect and advise on the adequacy of Aluminum wiring.

          At RK Home Inspections we are available 7 days a week and we serve entire GTA Home Inspection Toronto, Home Inspection Mississauga, Home Inspection Brampton, Home Inspection Vaughan, Home Inspection GTA, Home Inspection Markham

          Find us on google places / maps  Home Inspection Mississauga, Home Inspector Mississauga, Mississauga Home Inspection

          Sunday, July 7, 2013

          Dangers of Carbon Monoxide


          What it is?

          Carbon Monoxide is a colourless, Odorless gas and it can harm you even at small concentrations. Carbon Monoxide (CO) displaces oxygen which binds with the hemoglobin and thus suffocates the body. Carbon Monoxide can harm you in low concentration over a period of several hours. However, in higher concentrations Carbon Monoxide can kill in less than five minutes.

          Please see table published by CMHC (Canadian Mortgage and Housing Corporation) below for concentration of carbon monoxide and their effects:

          CO concentration in parts per million (ppm)
          Effects
          0 – 2
          Normal conditions in and outside Canadian houses.
          10
          Recommended exposure limit over a 24-hour period.3
          25
          Recommended exposure limit over a 1-hour period.3
          30
          CO detectors are not allowed to sound alarm unless this concentration is maintained for more than 30 days.2
          70
          CO detectors must sound alarm within 1 to 4 hours.2
          150
          CO detectors must sound alarm within 10 to 50 minutes.2
          200
          Slight headache, fatigue, dizziness and nausea after 2 to 3 hours. CO detector alarm must sound within 35 minutes.4
          400
          CO detectors must sound alarm within 4 to 15 minutes.2
          800
          Dizziness, nausea and convulsions within 45 minutes, death within 2 to 3 hours.4
          1,600
          Death within 1 hour.4
          13,000
          Danger of death after 1 to 3 minutes.4

          How it is produced?
          In a House Carbon Monoxide is produced by any fuel burning appliance which has malfunctioned or improperly installed, such as!
          • Furnace
          • Stove and Oven
          • Water heater
          • Dryer
          • Room and space Heater
          • Fireplace and wood Stove
          • Charcoal Grills
          • Automobiles
          • Clogged Chimneys or flues

          How to protect yourself?
          • Service your furnace regularly by certified HVAC Technician.
          • Get flues, dampers and chimneys inspected yearly by certified professional for any obstruction or crack.
          • If you have an attached Garage make sure the door between the garage and house is properly sealed and it has a self-closing devise.
          • Install Carbon Monoxide detectors in the house preferably on each floor and especially near sleeping area where it can easily be heard while sleeping. Furthermore, test them regularly for proper operation.
          For more information on Carbon Monoxide please visit
          Carbon Monoxide Article by CMHC


          At RK Home Inspection we check all the Carbon Monoxide detectors present into your house. Recommend them if they are absent. Furthermore, we carry our own Carbon Monoxide detector to test the concentration of Carmon Monoxide concentration in the ambient air.
          Find us on google places / maps Home Inspection Mississauga, Home Inspector Mississauga, Mississauga Home Inspection
           








           

           

           

          Saturday, June 29, 2013

          GFCI Outlet


          What it is?
                                   GFCI OUTLET

          GFCI stands for Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter.

          Where it is required?

          GFCI outlets in Ontario are required in kitchen, washrooms, laundry room within 1.5 meters (5 feet) of the water source (edge of sink, vanity, tub, laundry sink). Furthermore, they are required on the outside of the house. They are recommended as a safety upgrade but not required in the garage of the house.

          How they operate?

          GFCI outlet is a very sensitive devise which can detect minor variation in the current flowing between hot and neutral slots. If there is an imbalance in the current flow it trips the circuit. It is able to sense a mismatch as small as 4 or 5 milliamps, and its reaction time is as quick as one-thirteenth of a second.
          To better understand its function I always explain my clients during Home Inspection like this. Suppose we are playing a passing a ball game, and I throw towards you a ball weighing a 50 grams. Then you are also supposed to pass me back the same ball weighing 50 grams. If for some reason the ball you threw back was 40 grams, then the 10 grams is getting dissipated or disappearing in thin air somewhere. The GFCI outlet measures the difference in the amount of current supplied and returned and if there is a difference it trips the circuit to prevent the person from shock.

          How to test it?
                                   GFCI TESTER
          During Home Inspection I test all GFCI outlets using a GFCI tester. GFCI tester is a devise which creates a condition or difference in the incoming and the outgoing current by press of the test button. GFCI outlet trips the circuit and then needs to be reset by pressing the reset button on the outlet
          I advise Home Owners to test their GFCI outlets every month by pressing the test button on the outlet itself.

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